Table of Contents
Introduction and Abbreviations
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- Definitions
- Research methodology
- Consumer research
- ACORN
- Other research
- Abbreviations
Premier Insight
Executive Summary
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- Market performance
- Slowdown in retail sales, but still growth
- International perspective and commercial reality
- More UK consumers have increased spending than have been cutting back
- Market factors
- Continuing growth in PDI means still money to spend
- More in the fashion-conscious early twenties
- Increased tourism is a key opportunity for UK retailers
- Accessories a key driver of interest and sales
- Designers trading up to combat counterfeiting and similar looks on the high street
- The anti-copying movement and ‘flash collections’
- Few admit being influenced by advertising
- Influence of celebrities waning
- Barriers to selling more
- Majority view designer clothing as over-priced
- A need to add value through differentiation
- Opportunities for selling more
- Designer stores need to be warm and welcoming
- Service at designer retailers doesn’t stand out from rest of high street
- Retail structure and challenges/opportunities
- Department stores dominate
- Independents still strong
- Opportunity with older consumers
- Welcome to my world
- The Internet is a big growth opportunity
- The importance of the designers themselves
- Does a designer label need a high profile designer at the helm?
- Calvin Klein remains in the lead
- The future
- Trading-up by designers set to continue
- Big potential from new breed of tourists
- Internet increasingly important
Retail Sales
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- All retail sales
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- Figure 1: All retail sales, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05
- Retail sales through clothing specialists
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- Figure 2: Sales through clothing retailers, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05
- Sales through non-specialist non-food retailers
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- Figure 3: Sales through non-specialist, non-food retailers, at current and constant 2000 prices, 2000-05
- Sales of designer clothing
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- Figure 4: Consumer spending on women’s and men’s designerwear, 2000-05
Sector Structure
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- Main channels of distribution
- Pyramid shape industry
- The trend is upwards
- Haute couture
- Savile Row
- The major groups
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- Figure 5: Corporate ownership of designer brands, 2005
- Retail outlets of the designer brands
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- Figure 6: Designers standalone stores in the UK, 2005
Market Factors
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- PDI and consumer expenditure
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- Figure 7: PDI and consumer expenditure at constant prices and savings ratio, 2000-10
- Employment
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- Figure 8: Structure of the UK working population, by male and female employment, 2000-10
- Population trends
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- Figure 9: Total UK population, by age group, 2000-10
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- Figure 10: UK adult population (aged 15+), by socio-economic group, 2000-10
- Counterfeiting and parallel trading
- And then there are ‘similar looks’
- Licensing
- Tourism
The Consumer
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- Key consumer findings
- Designer labels purchased
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- Figure 11: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005
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- Figure 12: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
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- Figure 13: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
- Sources of purchase for designer label clothing
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- Figure 14: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005
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- Figure 15: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2003 and 2005
- Sources of purchase by designer labels bought in last 12 months
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- Figure 16: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2003 and 2005
The Consumer – Detailed Consumer Demographics
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- Figure 17: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 18: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 19: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 20: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 21: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 22: Designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 23: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 24: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 25: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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Consumer Attitudes and Typologies
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- Key consumer findings
- Shopping for designer label clothing
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- Figure 26: Shopping for designer label clothing, August 2005
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- Figure 27: Shopping for designer label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
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- Figure 28: Shopping for designer label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
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- Figure 29: Shopping for designer label clothing, by designer label purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 30: Shopping for designer label clothing, by designer label purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 31: Shopping for designer label clothing, by stores shopped for designer label clothing, August 2005
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- Figure 32: Shopping for designer label clothing, by stores shopped for designer label clothing, August 2005
- Attitudes towards designer label clothing
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- Figure 33: Shopping for designer label clothing – attitudes of all consumers and purchasers in the last 12 months, August 2005
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- Figure 34: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
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- Figure 35: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
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- Figure 36: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by designer labels purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 37: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by designer labels purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 38: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by stores where designer label clothing purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 39: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by stores where designer label clothing purchased, August 2005
- Identifying targets
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- Figure 40: Consumer typologies for purchasing designerwear, August 2005
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- Figure 41: Consumer typologies for purchasing of designerwear, by gender, age and socio-economic group, August 2005
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- Figure 42: Consumer typologies for purchasing of designerwear, by designer labels purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 43: Purchasing of designer labels, by consumer typologies, August 2005
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- Figure 44: Consumer typologies for purchasing designerwear, by sources of purchase, August 2005
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- Figure 45: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing, by consumer typologies, August 2005
- Number of different designer labels purchased
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- Figure 46: Number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by consumer typologies, August 2005
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- Figure 47: Designer labels purchased in last 12 months, by number of labels purchased, August 2005
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- Figure 48: Sources of purchase for designer label clothing, by number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, August 2005
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- Figure 49: Number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by sources of purchase for designer label clothing, August 2005
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- Figure 50: Number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by gender, age and socio-economic groups, August 2005
Consumer Attitudes and Typologies – Detailed Consumer Demographics
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- Figure 51: Shopping for designer label clothing, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 52: Shopping for designer label clothing, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 53: Shopping for designer label clothing, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 54: Shopping for designer label clothing, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 55: Shopping for designer label clothing, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 56: Shopping for designer label clothing, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 57: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 58: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 59: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 60: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 61: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 62: Attitudes towards designer label clothing, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 63: Consumer typologies for purchasing of designerwear, by presence of children, lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 64: Consumer typologies for purchasing of designerwear, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 65: Consumer typologies for purchasing of designerwear, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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- Figure 66: Number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by presence of children, lifestage and Mintel’s Special Groups, August 2005
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- Figure 67: Number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by region and ACORN category, August 2005
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- Figure 68: Number of different designer labels purchased in the last 12 months, by media, commercial TV viewing and source of regular grocery shopping, August 2005
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Retailer Market Shares
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- Women’s designer clothing
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- Figure 69: Retail market shares of women’s designerwear market, by outlet type, 2001, 2003 and 2005
- Men’s designer clothing
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- Figure 70: Retail market shares of men’s designerwear market, by outlet type, 2001, 2003 and 2005
Retailer Profiles
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- The designers
- Aeffe Fashion Group
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- Figure 71: Aeffe Fashion Group, total sales split, by designer brand, 2004
- Gucci Group
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- Figure 72: Gucci division, split of total sales, by product category, 2004
- LVMH Holding
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- Figure 73: LVMH, split of total sales, by geographic region, 2004
- Marzotto
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- Figure 74: Marzotto, split of clothing sales, by geographic area, 2004
- Prada Group
- Richemont
- Giorgio Armani
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- Figure 75: Giorgio Armani, wholesale turnover, by brand, 2003
- Burberry
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- Figure 76: Burberry, split of sales, by product category, 2005
- Calvin Klein
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Paul Smith
- Polo Ralph Lauren
- Tommy Hilfiger
- Versace
- Vivienne Westwood
- Other/smaller designers
- Betty Jackson
- Caroline Charles
- Ghost
- Jasper Conran
- John Rocha
- Julien Macdonald
- Lanvin
- Marni
- Matthew Williamson
- Nicole Farhi
- Department stores
- Debenhams
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- Figure 77: Debenhams: UK and Ireland, number of stores, 2001-05
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- Figure 78: Debenhams: UK and Ireland, planned store opening programme, spring 2006-autumn 2007
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- Figure 79: Designers who create ranges for Designers at Debenhams, 2005
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- Figure 80: Debenhams: Group financial performance, 2000-04
- House of Fraser
- Store portfolio
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- Figure 81: House of Fraser, number of stores, 2001-05
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- Figure 82: House of Fraser, planned store opening programme, 2005-08
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- Figure 83: House of Fraser, financial performance, 2001-05
- Harrods
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- Figure 84: Harrods Ltd, financial performance, 2000-04
- Harvey Nichols
- Liberty
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- Figure 85: Liberty plc, financial performance, 2000-04
- Selfridges
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- Figure 86: Selfridges, financial performance, 2000-04
- Other department stores
- Fenwick
- Hoopers
- Independents
- Discount/value retailers
- TK Maxx
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- Figure 87: TK Maxx, financial performance, 2001-05
- Factory outlet centres (FOCs)
- Mail order/Internet
- Net-a-porter
- yoox.com and haburi.com
- e-luxury.com
- Oki-ni.com
- Ebay
- ASOS (as seen on screen)
Trade Perspective
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- The difference between designer and luxury clothing brands
- Differing views on 2004 sales performance
- 2005 so far, and views on tourism
- Key factors influencing designer sales
- Negative influences – Chav culture
- Different consumers shop different retail channels
- The Internet – opportunity or threat?
- Trend to tailoring
- Accessories have been a key driver of the market
- The most influential designers
- Counterfeiting and parallel trading – more under control?
- The effect of Designers at Debenhams and multiples’ high fashion style
- Designer prices – too high or good value for money?
- Designer clothing sector – strategies for success
- Designer clothing sector – future prospects
The Future
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- Factors most likely to influence the market
- Economy
- Fashion
- High street impact
- Price and value for money
- Tourism
- Counterfeiting
- Celebrities
- Who will be the winners/losers?
- Department stores
- Independents
- International designer boutiques
- Discounters/factory outlet centres
- The Internet
- Recommendations for retailers to maximise their potential
- Make it ‘worth it’
- Get the message across
- Add value to the whole shopping experience
- Respond faster
- Make it easier
Forecast
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- Growth in total sales predicted
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- Figure 88: Forecast of the UK designerwear market, at current and constant 2005 prices, 2005-10
- Gains from increasing consumer awareness
- Bright future for the Internet
- Factors used in the forecast
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